Getting Started

In an effort to introduce more people to the hobbies that I enjoy, particularly wargames, I will be offering a series of articles on how to get started. I have wasted an awful lot of time and energy over the years collecting things I didn't need or were of no particular use. Hopefully these articles will help the budding hobbyist in avoiding some of the pitfalls I encountered lo those many moons ago.


Purchasing Your Supplies

The first hurdle to cross in starting any new hobby are your start-up costs. There will likely be initial expenditures that cause the hobby to appear more pricey than it really is. However, most of your initial supplies will last a long time and provide you with a constant source of enjoyment. Here are the starters:

The rulebook for the game and the army book for your faction. Most game systems have a core rulebook that explains how the game itself is played. It will likely include "fluff" or background to the setting, lots of pictures of the models, and guides to getting started. Beyond this, there will likely be an army book that details your individual force with in-depth rules and tactica for playing them. Some companies, like Privateer Press, include basic army rules in the core book. I love collecting army books and rulebooks since they look great on my shelf and provide many hours of reading enjoyment.

The paints come next. I recommend buying high guality paints and brushes. You don't want to spend a lot of money on your models only to ruin them with a bottle of nasty, grainy paint. Spend a few extra bucks and buy Games Workshop, Privateer Press Paint, Vallejo, or Reaper. They are worth it. Also invest in a good quality can of spray primer. Make sure it is formulated for miniatures and use it properly. Again, undercoating your models on a windy, rainy day will ruin the work you put into assembling them. For brushes, buy them long and pointy.

Hobby tools are also important. For working with plastic models you will need to purchase what are called "sprue cutters." They are metal clippers that help you remove the models from their frame in order to put them together. I also use a razor blade to remove any molding lines. The one I prefer is a simple box cutter with snap-off blades. An Exacto knife is useful for getting into hard to reach places. A set of small files is also handy, particularly for metal models. You will also need a nice halogen desk lamp to illuminate your painting area. I like the goose neck variety.

Finally, you are ready for the models themselves. This is where most people take a step back and go no further. The price tag can seem a bit daunting as these will be a lot more expensive than the toys you remember as a kid. The problem is that wargames miniatures are made of two of the most expensive and volatile commodities in the world: oil and metal. Further, each model was designed and sculpted by hand or over a three year process on a computer. These are not easy products to fashion. However, once you have them, they are yours forever. I keep my models in a display case in my living room and they give me great joy whenever I walk past them. The difference between these models and a movie ticket or other transitory entertainment experience is that you are left with something substantial- something real that you can hold on to or even sell for more than what you initially paid for. Go on ebay sometime and see what a pro-painted army can bring in.

How to Purchase

You have several options for purchasing your supplies:

The Friendly Local Game Store: This should be your first stop. A local store provides a place to play and meet other hobbyists. The owner can suggest which products you might need, and it is the best place to browse for that model you didn't know you wanted. You will likely pay full price here, but supporting the FLGS is worth it.

The Company Web Store: I only use this option when no other supplier has what I am looking for. Some websites have exclusives that can't be found anywhere else. The problem with this is that you are paying a premium and do little to support your local community

The Independent web store: There are many great companies that provide discounts on a wide variety of products. If you are on a tight budget, this is the place to go. You can usually find a 20% discount pretty easily in order to maximise your savings. Some websites also provide a "bits" service which means that they will sell you only the parts you need from a bigger kit. For instance, the $20 Commander kit from GW has a ton of options you don't really need. You can get a stripped down version without the options for a good deal less.

Ebay: For some super deals, this is the place to go. Buyer beware, however. I have purchased some items here that were not quite as advertised. For hard to find items or out of print stuff, this may be your only option.

Final Thoughts

Watch your budget! Chances are that you won't be able to paint more than about one unit a month anyway, so don't go crazy buying tons of models you don't need right away. I am currently working through my backlog and it will likely take me three months to do so. In the meantime I am on a purchasing embargo. Paint what you have first! Once you have your initial purchases out of the way you can budget about $50 a month for new stuff and still have plenty to work on.


-Maniple

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Warhammer 40K: Eldar

The Eldar are an ancient race that plied the stars long before humanity. Their technology is far superior than humanity's, but they suffer from lack of numbers and their own arrogance. They are a proud people, fighting for their existence in the ruins of a once great empire.

The Eldar army is made up of specialists. Unlike an army like the Space Marines, each unit is really only good at one thing. Their close combat units are very good at that, but are usually unable to shoot much of anything. Likewise, their long range shooters are capable of pouring lots of highly accurate fire on the enemy, but fold as soon as they get caught in an assault. As a result, you need to support units with each other and play very tactically to get the most out of them.

Here is what comes in the Battleforce:
1 Eldar Dire Avengers Squad (5 models)
1 Eldar Guardian Squad (8 models)
1 Eldar War Walker
1 Eldar Wave Serpent
1 Eldar Heavy Weapon Team

This is one of the cheaper boxes at $95. Bought separately you can get the same force with a few more Dire Avengers for $146.75.

Paint:
I will not attempt to tell you how to paint Eldar in this small space. The army will not necessarily have a unified color scheme since each unit comes from a different Aspect Shrine. As a result, each unit should be painted in its own scheme in order to differentiate them on the tabletop. For the best look, focus on keeping clean lines and bright highlights. It is OK for Imperial Guard and Orks to look sloppy, but not these guys.

Next Steps
  • This all depends on what kind of force you want to start putting together. A Farseer with a Council is good as they are effective in combat and the farseer can boost the army with his psychic powers.
  • Buy transports for your units when possible. If they are protected in a vehicle, that will go a long way to mitigating their low toughness.
  • After a few games, begin building up where the weaknesses lie. For shooting, get some Dark Reapers or a Heavy Weapon team. For durability, get some walkers or tanks. For close combat, get some Banshees or Striking scorpions. For mobility, get a unit of Swooping Hawks.
Final Thoughts
To be successful this army has to focus on what makes it good. They have good mobility, ballistic skill, and initiative. Ask yourself how to increase those attributes and avoid their weaknesses (low armor and toughness).Also, Harlequins are cool. Buy some and learn to paint them so they look like the picture on the box.
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