Super Battle Awesome: Warhammer

Getting Started

In an effort to introduce more people to the hobbies that I enjoy, particularly wargames, I will be offering a series of articles on how to get started. I have wasted an awful lot of time and energy over the years collecting things I didn't need or were of no particular use. Hopefully these articles will help the budding hobbyist in avoiding some of the pitfalls I encountered lo those many moons ago.

Purchasing Your Supplies

The first hurdle to cross in starting any new hobby are your start-up costs. There will likely be initial expenditures that cause the hobby to appear more pricey than it really is. However, most of your initial supplies will last a long time and provide you with a constant source of enjoyment. Here are the starters:

The rulebook for the game and the army book for your faction. Most game systems have a core rulebook that explains how the game itself is played. It will likely include "fluff" or background to the setting, lots of pictures of the models, and guides to getting started. Beyond this, there will likely be an army book that details your individual force with in-depth rules and tactica for playing them. Some companies, like Privateer Press, include basic army rules in the core book. I love collecting army books and rulebooks since they look great on my shelf and provide many hours of reading enjoyment.

The paints come next. I recommend buying high guality paints and brushes. You don't want to spend a lot of money on your models only to ruin them with a bottle of nasty, grainy paint. Spend a few extra bucks and buy Games Workshop, Privateer Press Paint, Vallejo, or Reaper. They are worth it. Also invest in a good quality can of spray primer. Make sure it is formulated for miniatures and use it properly. Again, undercoating your models on a windy, rainy day will ruin the work you put into assembling them. For brushes, buy them long and pointy.

Hobby tools are also important. For working with plastic models you will need to purchase what are called "sprue cutters." They are metal clippers that help you remove the models from their frame in order to put them together. I also use a razor blade to remove any molding lines. The one I prefer is a simple box cutter with snap-off blades. An Exacto knife is useful for getting into hard to reach places. A set of small files is also handy, particularly for metal models. You will also need a nice halogen desk lamp to illuminate your painting area. I like the goose neck variety.

Finally, you are ready for the models themselves. This is where most people take a step back and go no further. The price tag can seem a bit daunting as these will be a lot more expensive than the toys you remember as a kid. The problem is that wargames miniatures are made of two of the most expensive and volatile commodities in the world: oil and metal. Further, each model was designed and sculpted by hand or over a three year process on a computer. These are not easy products to fashion. However, once you have them, they are yours forever. I keep my models in a display case in my living room and they give me great joy whenever I walk past them. The difference between these models and a movie ticket or other transitory entertainment experience is that you are left with something substantial- something real that you can hold on to or even sell for more than what you initially paid for. Go on ebay sometime and see what a pro-painted army can bring in.

How to Purchase

You have several options for purchasing your supplies:

The Friendly Local Game Store: This should be your first stop. A local store provides a place to play and meet other hobbyists. The owner can suggest which products you might need, and it is the best place to browse for that model you didn't know you wanted. You will likely pay full price here, but supporting the FLGS is worth it.

The Company Web Store: I only use this option when no other supplier has what I am looking for. Some websites have exclusives that can't be found anywhere else. The problem with this is that you are paying a premium and do little to support your local community

The Independent web store: There are many great companies that provide discounts on a wide variety of products. If you are on a tight budget, this is the place to go. You can usually find a 20% discount pretty easily in order to maximise your savings. Some websites also provide a "bits" service which means that they will sell you only the parts you need from a bigger kit. For instance, the $20 Commander kit from GW has a ton of options you don't really need. You can get a stripped down version without the options for a good deal less.

Ebay: For some super deals, this is the place to go. Buyer beware, however. I have purchased some items here that were not quite as advertised. For hard to find items or out of print stuff, this may be your only option.

Final Thoughts

Watch your budget! Chances are that you won't be able to paint more than about one unit a month anyway, so don't go crazy buying tons of models you don't need right away. I am currently working through my backlog and it will likely take me three months to do so. In the meantime I am on a purchasing embargo. Paint what you have first! Once you have your initial purchases out of the way you can budget about $50 a month for new stuff and still have plenty to work on.

-Maniple

Showing posts with label Warhammer. Show all posts

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Warhammer & 40K: Chaos Daemons

In the Warhammer Universe there is an alternate dimension called "The Warp." It is a twisted reflection of our own world, where all the worst emotions of the living take shape as "warp entities." They are not evil per se, but instead are formed out of our own faults and failings. There are four chief distinctions of these entities, relating to rage, lust, decay, and change. Sometimes these entities break through into the material universe where they take form in order to spread misery and death to the living.

This is a unique army in that the same units can be fielded in both Warhammer and 40K. They consist of specialist troops that share the traits of being able to "just appear" on the battlefield, shake off grievous wounds with invulnerable saves, and wink out of existence as quickly as they came.

Here is the starter box for both games
20 Bloodletters
10 Daemonettes
10 Pink Horrors
5 Seekers

The box is $105 or $140.75 if purchased separately. The box includes both round and square bases.

Paint
Khorne troops, like the bloodletters should be painted with Blood Red and Baal Red Wash.
Nurgle troops, like Plaguebearers, can be painted with Goblin Green, Thraka Green, and Bleached Bone.
Slaanesh troops, like the Daemonettes, can be painted with any selection of pinks and purples
Tzeentch troops might be painted in any color you want, since they are constantly changing their forms.

Next Steps

Most of the best choices here are the named characters in the lists. They come with a wide variety of special abilities, so pick one that suits your play style.
Juggernaughts are very tough and can deal out a ton of damage to the enemy
Nurgle troops are very resilient and are great for holding the middle of your line and sitting on objectives.
You won't get a lot of long range shooting in this list, so take a look at where it can be found, especially in psychic abilities and fast troops with their own ranged attacks.

Final Thoughts
The army has a lot of deep-striking ability which can be a blessing and a curse. The invulnerable saves are nice, but there is a risk that your deep strikers will get shot to pieces before they get in. Play smart and use your special abilities to keep the enemy on their back foot.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Warhammer: Orcs and Goblins

Along with starting my 40K Ork army, I also started a Warhammer Orc and Goblin army. They are not too different from their 40K counterparts, being tough, strong, and unruly. They boast some combat specialists, powerful magic, and some unpredictability as well.

Here is what come in the Battalion Box:
20 Goblin Warriors
15 Orc Boyz
10 Goblin Spider Riders
5 Orc Boar Boyz

All these units come with command options and will run you $105. This is a savings of $18.75, not the greatest deal but you end up with a good sized force.

Recommended Paints
Dark Angels Green
Goblin Gree
Bleached Bone
Scorched Brown
Bestial Brown
Snakebite Leather
Blood Red
Boltgun Metal

Next Steps:

Your first HQ option is of course the Warboss kit. I like these since they let you build two characters. However, another interesting option is to field a number of cheap Goblin heroes instead of heading right to the Orcs. They are super cheap and can be tooled up to offer a surprise to the opponent, especially when you put three of them in the same unit.
This force is already fairly mobile, but chariots and wolf riders are good as well. Your boyz become particularly effective when helped out with a flanking attack on the enemy.
Artillery is important as well. The list has access to lots of cheap bolt throwers and stone throwers. With the increased number of hordes being seen in Warhammer, these have a good chance of paying for themselves
Black Orks are very tough combatants and have the ability to quell animosity of units around them. This will help your army function more effectively in the long run.

Final Thoughts
This army has been fun to play over the years and has given me equal wins and losses The losses often came about because the units began squabbling or magic went disastrously wrong. When I did win, however, it was often decisive. The kits are easy to put together and you don't need to be a master painter to get them looking good. Overall this is a very good starting force.

-Maniple

Hobby Starters: Warhammer: The Empire

The Empire is a good place to start in Warhammer. You will be able to have an all plastic army with lots of options. You can field a relatively small army with lots of cavalry and artillery or go the horde route with lots and lots of infantry.

Here is what comes in the Battalion Box:
20 State Troops
10 Handgunners
10 Greatswords
8 Knights
Bought Separately, this would run you $150.50. As a set, it costs $115.

Recommended Paint Options (around $4 apiece):

Blood Red or Scab Red
Goblin Green
Dwarf Flesh
Elf Flesh
Bestial Brown
Chainmail
Chaos Black
Skull White

Next Steps

You will need to purchase a General. The plastic kit is the best value for $26.50 since you will get enough pieces to create two characters, one mounted and one on foot
You should look at long range support. This can take the form of fast cavalry units, artillery pieces, or wizards. All are good options but reward different playing styles
Bulk out the army with another Battalion Box. This will give you the option to use the horde rule and take advantage of attachments as well.

Final Thoughts
The Empire is not as tough, fast, or hitty as other armies. It focuses on teamwork and tactics over brute force. I have found that the army works best with lots of different units supporting one another on the field. If you get too specialized, chances are that another opponent will out-specialize you and your efforts will be wasted. Also, invest in a good army transport for your figures. This army has a lot of little, fragile pieces that do not respond well to rough handling. Also, buy some regiment bases and movement trays so that you can model the troops standing together. As the army grows in size it will be more difficult to move them around the table if they are all on individual bases.

-Maniple

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